Surprisingly, during almost all of my time in Scotland, I experienced very little rainy weather. However, the weather often changed in mere minutes . . . from sunny and clear to windy and overcast. It’s a good thing I’m learning to embrace change.
In order to experience the culture surrounding Loch Ness’s famed monster in as many ways as possible, I took a boat cruise of the loch. To get to the dock for my cruise, I had to buy a ticket for the giant red double-decker Sightseeing Bus. In order to do that, I first had to swallow my pride and accept the fact that I am a tourist, and sometimes being a tourist necessitates the loss of dignity that accompanies riding an obnoxious red vehicle with a pre-recorded guide.
Once I arrived at the Jacobite cruise center at Dochgarroch, I realized how streamlined and polished the entire process has become through years of growth in the loch’s tourist industry. I was even able to talk with an employee at the center, and she had some interesting information to share with me. She noted that there has been an increase in the number of people visiting Loch Ness; significantly, there has been a 40% increase in boat tours since last year. This could be for any number of different reasons, but the employee conjectured that it may be because Scotland feels a lot “safer” than other European countries at the moment.
The cruise itself was exhilarating! I wasn’t content with sitting in the lines of benches on the top level of the boat; naturally, I needed an unobstructed view of the loch with no one in front of me to protect me from the harsh Highland wind, so I opted to stand/crouch at the front of the boat to maximize my experience. (I was careful not to block anyone’s view!) The waters were choppy and the wind was strong, but it was an incredible experience. They were even selling hot chocolate with whisky in it. According to our guide, the more of these boozy concoctions someone has, the more likely they are to see Nessie! Go figure.
By the end of the cruise, tears were streaming down my face from the wind and my hair could probably have been mistaken for an actual monster, but I had a lovely time. The cruise dropped us off at the Urquhart Castle, so I was lucky enough to explore the ruins another time.
I also spent a lot of my time exploring Inverness, especially in the evenings. Let me once again stress how sweet the Scottish people are; I had a full conversation with the woman next to me in line in TJMaxx about the perils of buying pillows without being able to try them first. Everyone is so friendly and helpful.
Hiking is one of my favorite things to do, but I never get to do it due to my schedule during the academic year. As a result, I decided to take advantage of my free schedule to explore the beautiful trails that surround the River Ness! Armed with hiking boots and a can-do attitude, I headed towards the Ness Islands, where water converges around small, tree-filled “islands” in the middle of the river. It was a great way to decompress after the hectic bus schedules of the city. There was even a fallen tree that someone had carved into a makeshift sculpture of the Loch Ness Monster. So it does exist!
On my last full day at the loch, I decided to go to the small town of Dores. I knew this to be the home of the Dores Inn, a precious bar and restaurant, and also the home of famed Nessie hunter Steve Feltham. Mr. Feltham holds the Guinness World Record for the longest monster-hunting vigil on the loch (over 25 years now, after leaving a steady job and girlfriend). I was supposed to pay him a visit at his small shop/base next to the inn, but he had a friend visit at the last minute, so I was unable to meet him. (I expect he just didn’t want to talk to another American tourist, and I can’t really blame him. I hear he now thinks that the "monster" is a massive catfish.)
I’m so glad I visited Dores -- it was easily my favorite location on the loch that I was able to visit. I arrived early in the morning, but the Dores Inn didn’t open until the afternoon, so I decided to find a quiet spot to sit by the loch. However, Dores is almost exclusively residential, so there weren’t many public benches or parks or even sidewalks, for that matter. The loch was lined with small, private cottages with gardens. I decided to maneuver behind one of the cottages, and I found a little grove of rocks and trees that hid me from view of the road. (What’s an adventure without a little trespassing on private property?) I actually sat here for a couple of hours because it was so beautiful; a heavy cloud of silver fog cloaked the loch and the hills surrounding it, and I felt the most peace that I have in a long time. Even when it began to rain. Especially then.
 |
When the Dores Inn opened, I was ready for a hearty Highland breakfast. My server took pity on me due to my red nose and soaked coat and immediately offered me some tea (and darn if it wasn’t some of the best tea I’ve ever had!). I sat at a table with a window facing the loch, and it was a lovely experience.
 |
| Perhaps the loveliest little place near the loch. |
After breakfast (and dessert), I took a walk along the beach next to the Inn, where I saw Steve Feltham’s residence and also took a couple of cool rocks from the loch. Don’t tell the Scottish police!
Overall, I loved my experience in Scotland. The loch is an incredibly beautiful and haunting place to visit; on a cloudy or rainy day, the black, opaque waters certainly seem like they could be the home of a monster. I understand why tourists and locals alike flock to the shores of Loch Ness -- myth and monsters aside, it’s an intriguing place to reflect and absorb the beauty of the Highlands.